Creating stamps
We haven't touched this topic concerning the stamps yet. Are there any examples of improvisations, perhaps you use or produce such tools?! Very often it is required to make the same details, the worst is when those are symmetrical – it is so hard to ideally repeat the same forms, especially when those are quite complicated. When looking at the models of the best masters you can watch and feast with fine details, jewel-like pick ups and with all those details that makes the model SO perfect. Recently I have faced the problem of adding fringe for decoration of flags and horsecloths – I've seen this with Russian Vityaz: really tiny fringe and (!) each separate fimbria is curved given an impression of singularity of each one! It looks very alive, natural and professional.I've tried cutting and pressing but all these looks rather simple and naïve. I've rolled wire compactly and cut 3-5mm long pieces, put those in one row and fix over the perimeter of the details – I've got positive result, BUT here comes a complexity of fixing big amounts. At the same time it is almost impossible to simulate natural chaos and curviness to the wires being rolled and fixed.
What I have done: I've flattened really thin layer of sticky patty (preferably green or Tamia) and put the previously cut pieces of the rolled compactly wire yet imitating some kind of motion – just 2 cm. When the basis of patty with wires hardened, I've lubricated it with liquid wax and printed the row to the fresh patty applied to the plastic base. When the stamp hardened I've lubricated the surface with the image of twisted fringe and stamped it several times one by one – the result appeared to be rather impressive, you can see it yourself on the following photos.
* One wire bounds off the base when stamping – this space was not intentional – the stamp itself does not have it.
I've arrived to the current stamps shape, meaning rounded working area of the stamps, by experiment. It is easier and simpler to use such one unlike flat one or put onto the small wheel one.
You can use any lubricator – starting with Fairy or just soaped water and all the way to the special wax separating lubricators. Meanwhile I use usual hair styling gel on the wax basis. Creams or gel-like substances when drying give solid dry seam, it is long lasting and can be easily put with a brush.
I've tried to make chain armor many times. I'm quite a profi on disposable syringe and needles in local drug store: I've tried DOZENS of those and that didn't make anything sensible. I've discovered only two tools: for 75mm made out of collet portionner 0.5 mm and out of pen point of gel pen, but these two options are inappropriate for 54 mm because of the size. I'll keep trying unless I get some acceptable results.
For a long time I've tried to "discover" easy and, which is more important, qualitative method of imitating chain armor myself. Rolled and pressed spring is in the history as well. And the problem as it was already mentioned with joining the winding. I've tried several options – making holders out of paper-clip and rolling the “springs” stamps over – it became a wheel with notches; I've tried both single rows and opposite double – I've got some results, sometimes even good result, YET all this is just “baby talks” and needles naughtiness just because with such stamps of chain armor rows you can only roll over or stamp flat surfaces. This method won't work on sculpture of human as there are no chances to imitate pleats or reach hard-to-get areas with the roller. After all, you can only get “natural” chain armor by pressing EACH ring one by one with your own hands! All other options are just a waste of time.
On the photo these are my all attempts and quests for the simpler process, yet no improvement of quality despite of rather natural imitation.
The photo below is another attempt from the past – pressing single chain armor rows with the embowed stamp. The result is evident but zero application possibilities for the chain armor. Instead you can change the pattern and press different kinds of belts, for example.
But you should not completely reject rolling over method – there's a bunch of different patterns that can be easily reproduced with the rollers. Rollers should be made of a small diameter – it would help to access hard-reaching areas. And another tip – you can do rollers with holders! “Necessity is the mother of invention” and you can use ready-to-use tool!!! It is very simple – this is regular disposable lighter!
Have you imagined it? It is simple as usually – you should disassemble and through away ALL unwanted details (details with springs, silicon holder, gas supply valve, outer cover) and all you have now is PERFECT holder (the lighter itself) and embedded ignition unit – which is the wheel with small rotational motion if it is not spring loaded with the silicon. That's all – the tool is ready! All you have to do is to put any patty on the wheel and to guide (roll) it over the prepared image – you have ready to use and almost branded stamp – with the pattern of your choice! These can be twined belt, and any repeating elements, and any patterns!
And similar method to the above – platting tails out of wire, a bit flattened model, stamp on the patty (magic) and carrying over to the plastic – sorry for the photo, but in the original all bends and relief of this complicated shape are pressed with high quality.
Just worth mentioning – do not use freshly prepared patty – especially when working with magic, milliput and apoxi – mix it and leave it for 40 minutes! Have some time to prepare a cup of coffee, have some rest, have a cigarette with your coffee, check weather forecast for tomorrow and only after this start working with а patty which is a bit hardened now.
And don't worry with the time patty becomes not that creamy, it starts springing a bit, it does not stick, but it reflects all delicacy if the pattern.
Best regards, will be glad if above will help you to avoid wasting you time or will give you a right clue in creating stamps.
Author: Zlobov*S (Sergey Zlobov)